Stale bread for the soul

What do you do when you don’t know what to do? At times, the orbit of thought spins faster, flowing freely at first, then coagulating. Suddenly no room remains. Like a suffocation of the mind, you gasp, reaching for anything. Stability, purpose, maybe just a reprieve, a little one. —— The body bears the weight of thought now. Minutes in, not yet having reached the wilderness boundary, man and motorized companion stop in front of me and he politely shuts off the engine. Forty horsepower now silent and questions begin. He’s soft spoken, polite and with a slow shake of the head, I know my plans suite me well. I’m left with a good luck wish and acknowledgments of bravery, which doesn’t tend to mean much to me when a stranger says such things, but I chose to remember his voice for a bit longer. In his advancing age, beyond the middle of middle, and sun filled skin, who am I to think I know better. I’ve long been uncomfortable with the thought of a walk out here. —— The desert I frequent is non-threatening, with its gentle sandstone curves, lushly fragrant vegetation, alluring canyons, ridges, pockets and relative abundance of water. It IS too good to be true. A goddess, a divine being. This isn’t the desert I know, but I don’t have the internal capacity to be uncomfortable and so, there’s only one decision to be made. To walk or to sit. —— Dormant grasses lay partially flattened in the space between rock. Rock that’s tall enough to encourage grass avoidance and short enough to encourage abnormal strides atop them. The path is not so much a path, but a suggestion, one that limits time spent swatting long limbed shrubbery. A warm up, if you will. A fogged window into the future. I’m carrying enough water to satisfy my conscious questioning of availability in a land of drought and recent fire. There’s one definite source, two days away, though at this southerly point in it’s meander, it contains anthropogenic additives from mines, farms, golf courses, ranches, roadways and hedonistic caretakers of the desert lawn. Proceed with caution. —— There’s a trail junction and I laugh, to nobody but myself. I’ve chosen the path of little travel, likely frequented by deer, javelina, coyote and big cats, but certainly few upright bipedalists. At that confluence, I begin the easiest miles of travel I’ll see out here; the beyond. Going beyond the bad and likely some good, but hopefully, just maybe, beyond myself too. It’s a simply composed line, generally straight, all downhill. It was quiet when I parked the car and it’s still quiet now, as I donate thousands of feet to my quadriceps. A weathered wooden sign directs me to a spring. I took note of this one and a couple others on a map before leaving, but had little confidence in their ability to satiate me. Springs on USGS maps are scarcely reliable in the desert. Could be dry, a seep, a trickle, a flow, or as this one is, a cattle trough filled to its brim. The admirable cohesion of clear delicious molecules sitting above the top, but not spilling, provide a metaphor us humans love to devour. Unity, man! Water in the desert, man! Drink up and feel at peace with nonsensical worrying. This is all you need, right here, right now. That’s one breadcrumb, taken with pleasure. Onward, downward. —— A rustle in the shrubs, a cracked branch and a quick swivel of my head to see the thing behind me. Nothing. Something, but nothing. Probably just me, trying to keep up, but falling behind. The sun has left, as it does, no longer entering my pores, but pleasing my eyes as it floats into that beyond, coaxing me along. —— My tent and sleeping bag sparkle with frost in the light of my headlamp, amid the awakening sky and last moments admiring stars. Puffy eyes and slow sight lead me over polished and tumbled rock. The careful steps of padded feet and sound of breathing fourteen inches from my face last night remind me of the sounds I heard yesterday afternoon. It must have taken me awhile to catch up. With each step away from the bottom of the canyon and up to the rim, the chill of sunken air dissipates and thus, so does my wool and down feather skin. Exposed again, ready to photosynthesize. Walking is great, so is eating. The sun, unable to feed me in its infancy for the day, means I get to indulge in one of life’s greatest pleasures; eating while walking. Yes, believe it! The drainage I ascend is dry, but a cottonwood stands on damp ground in the narrows, filled with chlorophyll, as birds question my arrival with plentiful song and dance. I thank them, regardless of their attitude towards my tall, quick moving, flightless self. I’m doing what I can, but I sure wish we could talk and admire the day together. —— I’ve traveled in a nearly straight line for almost 24 hours. At the high point now, it’s time to turn. Manzanita will be my unintentional guide through the rolling hills atop the mesa. Its wood somewhere between a deep rust and red brick in color, with leaves appearing mint green on their underside courtesy of tiny hairs reducing transpiration. The color combination is very pleasing for the eyes, made better when the urn shaped flowers, light pink in color, bloom. The flowers are quite small and being mostly pollinated by bees, who can’t fit themselves inside, it requires buzz pollination. The bees will hang upside down on the flower and vibrate in a way that causes pollen to drop from the anthers (male), clinging to their body, ready to be transferred to the stigma (female) of the next flower. Its hearty wood makes it not particularly easy to walk through, but it grows in such a way that I tend to always find myself induced in the act of intuitive wandering. Moving in the right direction, but via a path requested by your surroundings. It’s an intoxicatingly pleasurable way to travel. Trails are created to emulate this feeling, but don’t achieve the same satisfaction. They each have their place and now, as I walk the cobbled wash among charred vegetation, I get neither. I’ve found that the smell of blackened earth can bring one of two emotions. When the weather is colder, it reminds me of the last moments of a campfire, as you douse the heat before crawling into your sleeping bag, now covered in a thin coating of saccharine smoke. When the weather is warmer, it reminds me of deep summer, when the skin darkens from sun, dust, sweat, bliss. And then a haze hits you. Wildfire, here, maybe elsewhere, but its scent awakens a mild frenetic pacing, looking for answers as you remember all the places you’ve loved. Today, out here in the beyond, I seek shade, looking to sweeten my memories. Yet another cattle trough, filled to its brim, encourages the pondering of carbonized cells. It’s easy to feel sad for the land. Black is not a color most associate with good. When you think a little harder, it could perhaps be seen as a redefining, but at the very least, an unfortunate event for a place not accustomed to fire. The end, it is not. The land will persist, for this is but a millisecond on its time scale. Our time is limited, meaning any degradation of earth is degradation of self. The water is cold. That’s another breadcrumb, taken with pleasure. —— I stand at the crest of another climb, trying to make sense of distance and topography. This walk, to the trained participant, is clearly separated into sections. I place the idea in my head that I can see all of it from my perch. When you look out, far below, and see the breadcrumb you’ve placed, distance distorts when your eyes focus solely on where you desire. The space between, the intricacies, dissipate into a blurry two dimensional mass. In that moment you think it doesn’t look too far, it doesn’t look too complex, it doesn’t look too steep. It’s dangerous thinking, in more ways than one. Not only physically, as you glance past features you will travel through, but I think the greater danger is to regard that space as nothing more than a thing to get through, on your way to the breadcrumb you’ve tossed down the line. It’s a sin I’ve committed more times than I care to admit; unconscious movement, where the destination is the only desire. You’d be better off flipping through a picture book. You don’t have to worry about getting sunburnt. —— The spanish walk is when a horse, after being trained to do so, will extend their front legs in an exaggerated upward and forward manner when stepping. Almost like tip toeing. Almost like the way I walk through fields of cacti, where the tall grass inhibits sight of the ground that’s surely to be dotted with yucca, rocks like grapefruits, a snake or two and the fallen and dangling spine covered branches of senegalia and ocotillo. I’ve written a good bit here before the mention of senegalia, or catclaw, as it’s more commonly known. It’s native to the region, though thought of as invasive by some. Important for pollinators, though the recurved spines will cause familiar humans to shudder at the thought. It can grow into a small tree, hooking onto nearly anything that brushes against it. It has drawn more blood from my legs, arms and face, than any other plant. It’s torn apart clothing and my excitement for a place. It’s been abundant thus far and will continue to be. After being hooked so many times, the novelty wears off. My clothing has become pieces of sacrifice. Torn here, torn there, but there’s water to drink, rocks to roll with and an incessantly negative mind that needs to be dealt with and left behind. I haven’t seen it, the negativity, the sadness, in some time. Another thing for catclaw to rip away. Besides, it would be a shame to project my own burdens on a place so lovely. Yes, it’s lovely out here and I prove it to myself by stepping with intention across this mesa filled with intricacies. The rock laden ravine with it’s pools of water and native bunch grasses, the open hillsides carrying countless species of cacti and the flat stretch here at the end, hotter now, but with a juniper bush just tall enough for me to sit under. This is a trail junction, with little emphasis on trail. There isn’t one, but the leaning, cracking wooden posts tell me there is. It’s a comfort, the breadcrumb I tossed. I can see the river from up here and soon I’ll be at its shore, my pores to fill with it’s moisture and perhaps I’ll even sigh with relief because it signals the certainty of water for another day, as I walk upstream. The ocotillo, after a somewhat recent rain here, are in full form. They dance in the breeze, covered in fluorescent green leaves and tubular red flowers, offering their nectar to the long bills of hummingbirds. This year, find a tube shaped red flower and wait. When the hummingbirds surely show, you’ll be treated to the painfully sweet sight of their heads dusted in pollen. —— This walk had a purpose. Most don’t. Spontaneity and an empty mind, open and ready to be filled, is the way I prefer to travel. It was days out here that I tried to ask the most basic of questions and deny entry to intrusive ideas. Should I eat? How much? When will the sun set? And rise? Will there be a trail this time? No. No. No. Does that matter? No. Am I capable? Am I willing? Where is the water? And finally, as I bend and crouch and crawl underneath canopy after canopy of catclaw, so insistent I stay a while, I have the pleasure of asking the things, the place I’ve desired to become, where am I? I am here and nowhere else. The leaves of the cottonwoods flutter, I notice birdsong by the water, the line of ants, heat on my neck, every rock under my feet. I turn and bow one last time to the tunnels of thorns and dismiss the cries of self from inside. The weight has been shed and the loveliness of color and sound take its place. —— The sun won’t wait for me, I know this, though I love to shout praises at the blending of yellow, orange, red, pink, purple and blue. The water caresses my legs as each careful step brings me back to the sandy bank. Keep climbing. Standing now on a high, flat patch of ground above the things I moved through the last few days. It’s all there. Lay down to relax for once. The desperation of escape has ceased and I allow the quiet, most soft sounds of music to play, dozing off under pellucid pathways of stars, twinkling again, as they always have. —— As I rise from camp to crest the first of many hills out of the canyon, the sun shines, piercing skin, clothing and retinas with predictable warmth. I feel it this time, no longer chilled by discomfort. The leaves of oak trees, backlit by the morning, place me in a state of contentment you can often only feel at home. I spent my young years staring out my bedroom window at the same dancing of the oaks. I’d climb as high as I could into their canopy and sway with the wind until I thought I understood what being a tree was like. Sitting underneath them now, peanut m&m’s are like a delicacy, like I haven’t been eating handfuls of them. Chewing slowly, I pay close attention to the texture of each layer. After a few days, this is one of my favorite things to do when I’ve been eating for pure sustenance. The outer candy layer is delicate, the chocolate melting into a coating and the peanut is soft, but firm enough to chew. Pleasure is a peanut! It leaves me audibly laughing once more, to myself, to the oak, juniper, ocotillo, catclaw, manzanita, rocks and sun, oh glorious sun. —— Heel, toe, bang. The sign signalling my exit from wilderness takes on two forms. The slow digestion of the mind begins when I cross that physical boundary and walk lightly over crushed gravel, beyond the cows, back to the car. Gun wielding, public land participants dot the road. I close my eyes with each invasive noise. Silence will have the last word. I remember that. —— Walking up to the counter, there’s a thick smell of butter and salt. I sit in a patch of sun, on the dirt, with two mushroom and spinach empanadas, a carton of blueberries and brew a cup of coffee. I often forget what it’s like to talk after long walks. Words are there, but the movement of my mouth to make the words needs to be broken back in. Talking to myself is more of a mumbling, swirling noise, so I call my sister, like always, and run down the things I didn’t black out. It’s nice of her to listen. It’s hard to listen to myself sometimes, so I come out here. The beyond. It’s good here. It’s good. I remember how to pray, how to give in that way; submissive to the beauty along the stairway of my thought, the answers I think I need. What were my questions? I can not recall.

Tea with the wise

I thought I knew what a big tree was like. I thought I knew, until I didn’t. I’ve seen the Coastal Redwoods and Giant Sequoias, grew up surrounded by the many species of Oak, Maple and Cypress in Texas, frequently sweet talk the humble and lovely Cottonwoods of the desert, but this one is different. It’s an anomaly in my mind. My years on earth have been relatively few, with today marking 26 years, but I’ve found unparalleled joy in living slowly. Intentional slowness, not the uninspired, suffocated slowness, but the feeling when you ask yourself why we rush, when nothing else does. The natural environment, with its fine tuned nuance and glaring beauty, sits as if still, but moves with purpose so refined, it can’t possibly be wrong. Sitting at the confluence of two perennial streams, with room to breathe and little past disturbance, is a tree quietly sipping from the ever flowing fountain of good fortune. I recall it catching my attention, though it didn’t receive nonchalant acknowledgment until I was rather close. Circling, eyeing bottom to top and hugging various sides, the usual measurements. I just stood, mouth agape, in the empty amphitheater, as the tree spoke not a word. It pulled up a chair, so I sat, returned to my feet, circled, eyed, hugged and sat again. Difficult to look away, even more so to leave. Its freckles, dimples and wrinkles. Its eyes glow solemnly, hoping for company again, but content nonetheless to sit in paradise. The eyes that say everything and nothing, leaving me to write these love letters until I return. — This tree has become a symbol for me; a constant through inconsistency. Cliche! Nice one! Standing on one foot is easy, though even the slightest nudge can cause your arms to begin a calculated flail and your back, abs, hips, legs, ankles, feet and toes to adjust in a subconscious rhythm so as to keep your body from crumbling into an array of loose parts. The nudges have been occuring more often and with greater force the last couple years. I feel constantly on the verge of collapse, but these seemingly mythical objects, like the tree, give me something to hold on to. Something to help me retain that change is never linear, but to continue with that refined purpose that I greatly admire. My attempts to wax poetic about life and nature often seem like just that; attempts. A personal journal at best and simplifying deep emotional states at their most futile, but I continue because it helps. No longer stuck within nostalgia or questioning things better left alone. — As humans ignorantly continue to believe that development is progress and that our finite resources will lead to infinite prosperity, or rather, immediately fat pockets, we tumble ever quicker down towards the fire. Literally and metaphorically. It’s only fun until it burns. When a twinkling ember fluttered down towards the parched ground encompassing the tracks of the local coal powered tourist transporter, drought stricken grasses, shrubs, trees and microbiomes ignited, crying into the void as the soulful old growth forest, endemic flora and fauna and local communities literally and metaphorically were burned, while the steel brute continued to screech and snake through the very place it unapologetically chastised. Many of the largest ponderosa pines, douglas firs and blue spruce in the entire state smoldered until a fine powder remained. A blow to biodiversity and objects of wonder, solace among life and secrets within seeds. This tree, a ponderosa pine, the one I started this story about, feels like a portal back to that ecosystem before the anthropogenic burn. Scarred by fire, but standing proud, inviting those who will look, a window into that increasingly scarce environment. The ponderosa pine’s evolution has garnered it a healthy resilience. Its thick bark and bud-protecting needles are accustomed to frequent, low intensity fire and its ability to maintain relative health through drought means that when one sprouts in a rather lush patch of Southwestern Colorado ground, it grows unhindered. So much so, that it may even become one of the largest and oldest living in the state. I hope to collect more measurements this spring. With an unofficial circumference of 16 feet and 9 inches, it very easily wears the crown of largest ponderosa girth known in Colorado. Soon I’ll be in that chair again, where sap seeping from skin steeps the air with the smell of vanilla, bubblegum and citrus, and the horizon laughs and whispers echo in the silence.

Reverence and imitation

Curse the clouds, let them know how you feel. Maybe I should be cursing the forecast. The pulsing of wind with every passing poof of deep grey moisture taunts me. It knows I didn’t bring a rain fly. It knows the intoxicated carelessness I felt an hour ago, picking thimbleberries until my fingers dripped red. To move through the world at 3.5 miles per hour is to be close, but not too close. Always leaving the things you admire, to again satisfy the subsequent longing. Digesting of the past while consuming the present, with anticipation for the future. Time begins to take on the ethereal form of an illusion and suddenly you snap back to the aching of your feet and contraction of muscles taking you to a place you see in fictional works. The spots of sun evaporate the moisture on my skin, sending it back into the atmosphere, to surely fall back down later as a minor inconvenience to me. Who’s really creating the rain here? Perhaps if I slow down the clouds will dissipate. Face buried in my pack and too tired to contrive anything hinting at a pillow, a spotlight slices my eyelids. The full moon cresting the ridge brings shadows long enough to make the evening sun proud. I step out of my noseeum cocoon, as one might when the sun rises, and watched the shadows move with a slow elegance. The world has seemingly perfected it’s rituals and rarities, shapes and complexities, and when you sit to view such shows, you begin to understand your own insignificance. I didn’t have to open my eyes. I didn’t have to focus on anything other than getting a few hours of sleep. The moon would have risen anyway. The shadows would have walked across the lake anyway. The wind would have kept pulsing anyway. And the clouds would have formed and dissipated, without dropping a single dollop of rain anyway. I thought about my friends until the moon snuck below the opposite ridge and the electrifying blue of a wakening sky lifted me back onto my feet. I had recently gotten to experience small pieces of their respective multi week trips on the colorado trail. They had expressed varying levels of worry prior to leaving and, I feel, just as quickly made themselves at home with their choices. To see those you admire in a state of overflowing bliss is… calming. Stare into their eyes and they’ll suck you down a whirlpool of gold. Shimmering, pure gold. Cresting the pass and peering down onto the tundra, beaming with crystalline light, I felt their eyes staring back at me, slowly coaxing me down swirling torrents of color. I hope as I passed by the few other admirers I crossed paths with, that they too collected remnants of gold littering the hillsides and lakes. That color entangled their days and forced a calm satisfaction to cloak their worries.

Happy new year :-)

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Lean into the wind

The hardest part is getting out of the door. South and south some more. As I stand in the dusty triangle that is the United States and Mexico border monument 103, a small collection of people rise from the grass and strap the last remaining items to their bikes before the 7am start of the Arizona Trail Race. I’m fully packed and the thought of eating my egg sandwich makes me nauseous. I stare at my bike one last time for no reason. It’s not like I had forgotten what I packed. Sleeping bag, pad, fleece shirt, tools, lights, satellite messenger, water, many thousands of calories and one human experiencing an unpleasant level of anxiety. I need to leave. Quietly now, it’s just riding a bike. Pedaling away felt so right and so wrong. Snippets of life passed like the wind, but for days I sat on the edge of blacking out. This is an attempt to empty my head, remember the good and carry on the excitement I still feel about riding my bike. From the start, the need to get away from those watching was urgent. Whether the feeling of their eyes was a delusion, was and is irrelevant. It caused me to fail to see the beauty of place and become monomaniacal in escaping. I was constantly reminding myself to lift my damn head up and look, just look at anything other the passing dirt in front of my tire. My shadow extended far to my left as the sun crept over the hills. The light gold of the grass was soothing. Off of the two track and on to the main dirt road. The weight of my anxiousness made itself known on the smallest of inclines, causing my breathing to be short and labored. My lungs felt unable to expand. A masochistic laugh intervened with the panic and I again reminded myself that I’m just riding a bike. A dead coyote lay flat in the middle of the dirt. I didn’t have it so bad. The blackout commenced when the single track did. I thought I would see a rattlesnake at every turn, to put me out of my mental misery. I walked a lot. The trail was difficult. Record amounts of rain earlier in the year caused the plant life to grow unhindered. Grasses and thorns of every type distorted lines of sight and kept the speed very low. Atop one of the significant hills, I waited for someone to catch me. I needed to talk about anything. I could count the hours since starting on one hand and I already didn’t want to be alone anymore. A women named Kait came around the corner. She’s somebody I look up to in this niche ultra endurance world. I told her to go in front. I felt I was able to breath again. My incessant worrying dissolved in gentle conversation and I began remarking at the loveliness of it all. I took a mental note of how quickly my state of being altered. The physical effort began as the mental one was recovering. Kait slowly left my sight on a long, technical climb and my low became lower. A frozen bean burrito sat patiently in the trail, slowly thawing in the sun. I hope someone behind me took it and savored every bite. Hours and hours of memory became blurred by my dry mouth and bleeding legs. More of the same, more of the same, more of the same. I lubed my chain upon touching pavement, dumped crushed potato chips in my mouth and rode to the next place with a selection of cold beverages. It was a small detour from the official route, though I needed to snap back into a place of attention. One of many small reminders to try to enjoy myself. The micro breaks seemed to work. The next few hours of punchy hills, tall grass and big expanses bordered on fun. Then I crashed. Trying to avoid a rock that would have sent me over the handlebars, I veered slightly off trail and hit a rock that provided the same consequence. A quarter sized gash in my palm and blunt force trauma to my already broken (but healing, I hope) wrist left me moving less confidently, though for a shorter period than I imagined during the second of air time between bike and impact. Injuries seem to bore me these days. They occur so frequently when moving outside that they become a moment to sit on the ground, take a look around and proceed like nothing happened. The sun began to work it’s way up the Rincon Mountains, seemingly so far off in the distance. I’d be there early tomorrow morning to see the sun come sliding back down. I pull off to the side of the trail to let a young girl walk by on horseback. I wished in that moment that I was moving slower. The place was begging me to watch the show and I continued to move. Why must I feel the need to get away from such goodness? What’s the rush? Up again and back down. I stop to open a gate and say a quick hello to Mark and Emily, siblings visiting their parents on their property back in these hills. I begin to close the gate behind me and Emily asks what I’m doing and if I need water. They had stopped to watch the sunset and found chairs, food and drinks nestled in the shade, voluntarily becoming the caretakers of trail magic left for Arizona Trail enjoyers. Emily gets up from the chair, sits on the ground, opens up the cooler and they both insist that I stay a second. It’s hard to know what people see in you. It’s even harder to know if they see anything other than dirt, blood, minor delirium, and some shit strapped to a bike. Mark offers me a beer from his personal stash and Emily holds an orange and a case of oreos. I hate thinking about this interaction now. I felt that I needed to be somewhere, that I needed to inch closer to Tucson, then to Phoenix. I continued to hold the gate open and say out loud that I should continue riding. My brain was keeping me from actually continuing to ride. That somewhere that I needed to be, was right there and I was refusing to acknowledge it. I took three oreos and the orange. I should have taken the beer and the chair. Mark is a cinematographer working on conservation issues in southern Arizona and Emily was visiting from Germany. I don’t remember a single word I said. They were gentle, infinitely curious and warm. I felt so comforted, though I was finding it difficult to flip the switch from 12 hours of sensory overload to easy conversation. My head was yanking me north, but my body stayed put. I stayed ten minutes and loved every second of it. I regretted leaving immediately upon shutting that gate behind me. I was riding with the wrong motivation and making decisions I would never normally make. As I lay in my sleeping bag in a dirt patch late that night, shoveling more chips and a chocolate chip cookie in my mouth, I listened to the soft sounds of Michael Nau and Cut Worms, while watching the occasional shooting star glance by. I vowed to never again “race” through a place new to me. I never again wanted to pass up the kindness of strangers for the sake of a reaching a finish line, hypothetical or not. I was going against my own beliefs. The natural world demands our attention and to move through it with eyes on the ground, racing towards nothing, is a shame. I want to be too close, dissolving into the dirt, indistinguishable from the place I’m in. To that point in my ride, I could barely tell you what I saw. I could tell you how thirsty I was, how little I had eaten, where I started and where I planned to go, how horrid the thorns were, I crashed, I wasn’t having fun and I wasn’t doing anything to change it. My alarm sounded hours before sunrise. I planned to push hard today. I also planned to quit. Mount Lemmon, the apex of the course and home to the Cookie Cabin, would be my hypothetical finish line. I had decided the night before, under half shut eyelids, that I would come back when the desert was anew. Winter would begin the decay of chest high thorns and come spring, I could enjoy the living museum that is southern Arizona. At a lonely road crossing on the outskirts of Tucson, I stood for a moment, watching the shimmering orange glow of the city. A pair of lights snaked through the trail behind. The two circles beaming from their handlebar looked vaguely familiar. I wanted to say hi to whoever it was, but I was hoping it would be Colt, one of the people I love most in this life. They reached the road crossing and in the early dawn light said, “Alec?”. Yep, that would be me and the voice was unmistakable. Colt and I proceeded to ride on, quite honestly, a pristine section of desert trail into Tucson. FUN, like, REALLY ACTUALLY FUN. It was what I had been wishing for since 6:30 the previous morning. Dreamy swoops and swirls around cholla and ocotillo cacti, sun rising at our back and a market resupply in the near future. Off of the singletrack and back into the rush, I walk into the store and back out with coffee, orange juice, pasta salad and two bags of cheezits. I wanted to eat more, but my appetite still wasn’t what it should have been. That was all that sounded appealing. I imagined the next 15 miles of pavement to be a welcome reprieve from the bumbling singletrack, but it was just the opposite. The morning traffic only a few feet from my being caused me to continuously shutter. The piercingly loud noise, the smell, the uncertainty of being clipped by drivers not giving much space. I looked forward to the return of thorns. The ever so subtle headwind wasn’t helping. The aerodynamic advantage of laying my forearms on my handlebar was probably negligible thanks to my cut-off carhartt shorts and 50 pound steel rig. Look good, feel good, am I right? Before leaving Tucson and beginning the slow pedal up Mount Lemmon, I filled my three bottles with about 750 calories of Tailwind, a carbohydrate filled drink mix. Most of my calories consumed from the previous 30 hours were from that and my collection of crushed up potato chips. When your stomach isn’t agreeing with the thought of solid food, having liquid calories turned out to be invaluable. I had strangely been looking forward to riding up Lemmon. It’s a hefty climb, some 6,000 feet of ascent. Beginning down in the saguaro desert and ever so slowly morphing to grassland, then oak forest and pine forest as you reach the top. A long day on feet brought me from desert to forest a few years ago, but this time around would be entirely different. With a bit of dirt to start, most of the climb would be paved, allowing the opportunity to point all of my attention to the physical effort. And also staying out of the way of wide eyed inhabitants of the motor vehicle. Pushing myself through endurance sports is not new for me. They’re my obsession, an addiction. I think part of the human condition is finding a limit. This is a frequent topic of conversation in the endurance world. It’s romanticized so heavily that you sometimes feel a deep desire to do more than what’s sustainable. Limit is perhaps the wrong word to use in most instances. If you push until your heart fails, is that the physical limit? Death? Is an effort entirely quantifiable? Is there a point in our neural pathways where we reach a wall, unable to use cognitive ability to function? Or is it an infinite void, able to extend miles within? I’m going to label my 36 hours atop my bike as the most mentally and physically taxing thing I’ve ever done, by far. Mount Lemmon was the cherry on top; a breaking of the hardened shell I previously called my hardest effort. The view I had of myself suddenly lay in front of me, waiting for my tires to roll right over. Upon reaching Molino Basin, I refilled all three bottles from the cached collection of water, knowing that was likely the last water I’d see for the next few hours. I like to think I know my body well, well enough to gauge the heart rate and breathing I can sustain for a long period of time. I settled in and focused on pedaling. It’s just riding a bike. About 11 miles from the top, the Cookie Cabin and my hypothetical finish line, I began to slow. My speed remained about the same, though the deep, painful fatigue in my legs and dwindling ability to focus stepped into the spotlight. I pulled off into some shade for my one and only break. Colt had given me a pair of headphones when we were packing some days ago. I had chosen not to use them for most of the ride, as an effort to stay present. However, I do love music and I’m well aware of its ibuprofen like qualities. It was immediately clear that one headphone (so I could also hear cars approaching) wasn’t going to do. An escape was once again my focus. The eyes of onlookers wasn’t the concern this time, I was the concern. The leash I put around myself was hugging too tightly. Chris Cohen, Night Moves, Rolling Blackouts Coastal Fever, and maybe even a little Paul McCartney blew away the remaining crumbs of my ego. Focusing on the art circulating through my ears, some other version of myself took the bodily controls. I forgot I was breathing, I forgot the pain I was feeling, I forgot what I was doing. I just wanted to pedal my bike. The revolutions became euphoric. The sweet, citrusy, bubblegum like smell of pine drew a massive smile across my face. I stood out of the saddle and sprinted to the top of the rolling hills as you near the end of the paved road. I imagine I had been maxing out my heart rate for some time, too lost in the experience to know what was happening inside. The second to last micro downhill brings you to one last punching climb. The levitation and unison I had just been feeling, slowed again. Blurring life hit a puddle of molasses and sucked me into feeling who I was. My knees teetered on the brink of giving out. Throughout this multi hour saga, this was another first. Approaching bodily failure! Not remotely close to death, I felt more alive than ever, but a moving part becoming loose. I couldn’t believe that that’s what it took to feel satisfaction. I’m sure there was a sigh of relief somewhere in my heavy breathing. I had long abandoned the actual finish line of the Arizona Trail Race, but I crossed a personal finish line. That’s what I set out to do and I liked the way it felt. I pedalled with anything that remained down to the Cookie Cabin, attempting to cry for about the fourth time. I gently laid my bike on the ground, stumbled to the edge of the dry creek with trembling knees and sat. I tried to cry again, but couldn’t. No energy for emotion, nor comprehension of time or admiration of place. I sat, that’s it. I had nothing left to give and expected nothing in return. My chest, from the bottom of my ribs to my collarbones, was numb with the feeling of flowing blood wrapping me in its warmth. Ringing in my ears grew louder and louder, then softened, then silence. Maybe this was the feeling of metamorphosis that I sought to achieve. A feeling of invisibility; disappearance deep within myself. I slept poorly that night. My heart rate still sat at 90 beats per minute, more than double my normal. I wanted to get back on my bike so badly. My knees twinged continuously on my walk the next morning. I made it one mile before needing to sit. I called my sister, just to talk, and could hardly form a meaningful sentence. I told her I couldn’t resist pedalling. I rode in the easiest gear for an hour, then I went for a trail ride the next day, then I kept riding days after that. The irresistible freedom of invisibility has consumed me and I can’t wait to do it again.

I’m very lucky to love and be loved by my family and friends. Hard to consider this a solo endeavor. It’s far from it, but I like it that way.

Sights for sore eyes

I like to stare at maps. It feels a bit like being somewhere, without being there. Topo lines are like an inescapable maze. Enter through colorado and suddenly you exit in the sonoran desert. Perennial creeks and springs always get permanently marked and lines are drawn between them. Cow trails, decommissioned mining roads and secluded ecosystems are highly sought after. Make it a loop, make it a lollipop, repeat the least amount, but don’t think too hard. A day, two, three, ten? The maps on my computer screen are engulfed in rainbow spaghetti. Sometimes I don’t even know what I’m looking at. Squiggles contrived at late hours of the night, looking for an escape as I wait for the sun to rise. If a line follows a place I’ve been, I’ll replay each footstep over again in my head. I’ve been asked if I ever forget what I’ve done, and it’s a valid question. Years of existing in foreign and familiar spaces, moving under my own power. This is information difficult to quantify, but I imagine the hours I spend researching, going, being, photographing, note taking, decompressing and reminiscing nearly every time I go out is through the roof. I don’t do something just to forget about it. I don’t want to forget. Experiences are never the same and it would be a shame to lose what was given to me. I latch on to anything, to be sure it isn’t lost to time. A sleepless night thanks to a mourning dove, stone under my feet as I listen to a happy birthday voicemail, the way the light glistens on the lake below, a bloody nose from chilled wind in excess, yellow cottonwood leaves falling into my lap. Sitting at my dinner table one not so distant morning, aspen leaves gently twisting out the window with the predawn air, coffee directly under my face, I ritualistically checked the weather in various spots throughout the four corners. Not because I’d be going to any of those places, but because time had abruptly slammed into my chest. It’s October and all of that rainbow spaghetti was still sitting on my plate, uneaten. The list I had devised of things I most wanted to do before the snow flew was still just a list. This is my form of self torture. I’ve started to call my late season catatonia seasonal panic. It begins when the air is visibly different. All it takes is a day. You wake up and notice the tone of the atmosphere has become blindingly blue. The sharp fluorescence tends to leave me without much cognitive ability. A long stare and perhaps an audible OK! The next step in my panic is when the days feel too short. When you leave the house at 5pm and are quickly caught without a headlamp or any sense of what time it actually is. Suddenly 5pm rolls around days later and you question whether you go out at all. Time has a way of gnawing desire into a fine pulp. I haven’t learned to embrace the dark. The surface heated winds of spring turn my skin into a shell of hardened determination, determination to make it to summer, to char from the outside in. The early storms of fall bring bitter cold when you least expect it. They shear away the charred exterior, only to reveal the thing I never want to see. I’m burnt out. Unable to properly photosynthesis, my porous being sends beams of late afternoon sun scattering. This is seasonal panic. Learning to release the things I’ve been holding on to. They no longer have the ability to bring me immediate joy, so I move on. It’s the only way I know how to cope. Impermanence is a permanent consideration. To the desert, to soak my skin in pools of rock, to regain sensitivity to vegetation, to remember how fleeting life at my fingertips is, to calm my head and let the blood in my body flow freely again.

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Stop and smell the water

The primeval, seasonal movement of animals toward areas able to sustain life is entirely necessary. Moving to warmer climates in the winter months can provide food sources and overall comfort. Us humans have created things to be able to sustain life just about anywhere. Baseboard heating, grocery stores, technical clothing and the automobile. However, there comes a time during the extremely mild winters of southwest Colorado when my skin can’t bear the thought of slipping on yet another layer to distance it from the sun. The amusement park awaits, disconnected from reality, but with the guarantee of sandals. Cibola, Eden, Disneyland, no, Sedona! Barefoot already, I step into my truck and turn on Chris Cohen’s As If Apart album. A river of washed out nostalgia emanates from his voice. He sings like he’s in your living room, performing for only you, allowing an escape into a world inside the world. It’s sounds for rambling, with a beginning and no end. With every hour west from Durango, a new layer of clothing is exchanged or removed. Beanie for hat, sweater to short sleeves, jeans to shorts. For hours you’re left to navigate thoughts, roaming horses and beer cans until the harsh sounds of interstate 40 pierce your skin, reverberating through your veins. The repetitive expanse of ponderosa forest within the San Francisco volcanic field blurs as the road swirls down the canyon, revealing sandstone spires and oak in abundance. Sedona is bustling with all walks of life looking to shed their winter skin. Vermillion tinted cliffs diving into the deep sky offer the eyes an exciting contrast from the gently curving lines of December’s white floor. ——— I gather my life into a forty liter space and pull the strap tight over my pack. Most of my weight is comprised of water and a can of beans. Both are rare finds out in the central Arizona backcountry. I sling a leg over my steel steed and begin bumbling over washboard, potholes and fist sized rocks. The eighteen or so pounds on my back sloshes up, down and side to side, trying to pull me off. Solitude never lasts long near Sedona city limits. Helicopters, planes, jeeps, hot air balloons and every type of mechanized off-road vehicle in existence labor over bruised roads to show visitors the beauty of the area. The (in)famous pink jeep tours stream by, their suspension tuned to reduce spinal compression and chipped teeth, speaker blaring with the voice of the driver spouting facts and entertaining stories, managing to attract more attention than the landscape. An impressive feat, really. Exponential disconnect; drive really far to drive even farther. Fun for the whole family! ——— After compressing my spine in an arguably more enjoyable way, I stash my bike in a nearby juniper and begin my circumnavigation of nothing in particular. Arms brushing against flora and eyes scanning the horizon, a cliff dwelling hides away in the camouflage of sandstone above. Shrubs turn to evergreens and the dry creek bed holds what feels like the entire season of winter down in the deepest part of the canyon. I refuse to put my sweater on. On the climb to the saddle, I add another cut to my never wavering collection. Yucca Baccata makes sure I’m not daydreaming too heavily with a quick piercing of my calf. 5, 4, 3… and we’re done! That wasn’t so bad, huh? A somewhat recent burn has cleared the forest floor of debris. I weave through the trees, aiming towards whatever is most appealing. I find a fenced off spring, pure liquid flowing from the ground. The proximity to a cow pond is a little close to not want to filter. I curse the bovine as my bottle fills and construct a scene in my mind of what the ground may look like without their lackadaisical destruction. ——— While traveling off trail is generally where I feel most competent, there’s a certain comfort that comes with walking remote dirt roads. Perhaps as you stare down the line of crushed gravel, there’s an imaginary boundary on each side, creating false separation from wilderness. Or maybe it’s the feeling of knowing you’re heading towards something, somewhere. You can space out, if you like. The path is hard to miss. My metronome of steps slow as I come to a small dirt pull off and peer down into the canyon where my loop of nothing continues. The trail sees little traffic, as is evident by the small bugs being transported to my clothing from branches and leaves brushing my limbs. It’s a short way to the canyon floor, except this time the bottom is warm. It’s a relatively wide trench, spanning half of a mile across at times. Any remnant of cool air has been sent into oblivion. The trail is a bit like a dashed line; sometimes camouflage with rocks and grass and sometimes sticking out like a beam of light. It’s an unrecognizably downward gradient to my camp. Birds flutter in the bushes and cacti welcome the arrival of a guest with piercing treats at the door. An old rancher’s shack, maintained by the forest service, is where I end the day. Inside, there’s some stock of non perishable food. Rice, dried beans, oatmeal, three year old granola bars, dehydrated milk. Cast iron pots and rodent poop line the fireplace. The water jugs are empty but the log book is not. I sit on the rock steps outside, still warm from the sun’s pounding, and read every entry. Most stories are written about dried pot holes and creeks, each person lamenting the decision to not bring more water. Some handful of months after the last entry, I write my own. Something about wishing I had a beer or two. I sit for a long time, watching the evening glow work it’s way through the desert shrubbery. The color of a fire I wish I had creeps up the pine on the canyon rim. When the last needle leaves the glow, my mind turns inside. The dark comes quick in the winter months and I’m left to think more abstractly about my situation. I play scenes in front of me; friends and family sitting around a fire, fiddling with broken twigs and dirt. I’d hop back into the rancher’s shack, bring out the darkest stout and perfectly sweet/tart lemon meringue pie the imaginary fridge has to offer for my dad and mom. Perhaps I’d even hand churn chocolate ice cream for my sister, because you can do that if you think hard enough. ———— Moving to Colorado after high school brought the opportunity for solitude. I could be alone whenever I chose and with nearly endless options to do so. I dug so deeply within my head that I’d constantly have more questions than answers. Nothing was black and white. A perpetual longing for something, something more than what I could provide myself, though I’m not sure I knew it. ——— As the dark crept in, my vision disappearing and nothing to distract me, the warm steps became a place of division. I’m warm, fed, hydrated (kind of), in the middle of a wilderness, toes in the dirt, and it’s a week day. I wanted nothing more than to leave. Happiness is complex. There’s a saying that some outdoorsfolk and us introverts like to recite. “Alone, but not lonely.” I was alone and lonely. The voice inside screamed painfully loud. You are nothing without love! Perhaps I needed to brush up on my biophilia, perhaps I needed human connection. I closed my eyes to shake the thoughts of things I couldn’t have. ——— The morning brought a gentle, warm feeling. I hiked fast, leaving behind fatigued beliefs. My mind went blank for hours. The sun rolled over the hills and I cracked open my can of beans. Happiness is simple. ——— I’ve been down in the dry river bed since the twilight of early morning, carefully calculating my stride length to ensure efficiency over the boulder choked ground. Mature cottonwoods provide false comfort at every turn. The trees need plentiful water, though there’s hardly a drop of moisture anywhere and I could use a drink. I haven’t seen water since yesterday morning. I decide to climb out onto the bench above me, where drainages run perpendicular to my path. Relying upon potholes to satisfy my parched body isn’t ever the ideal situation, though the next closest person is likely 10+ miles away, when I’ll step out of the wilderness area and onto a forest road. It’d be nice to drink before then. The trail is just trampled enough to allow me to set cruise control and reflect on the things I was feeling the night before. While they aren’t new thoughts, they’re new enough that the way I navigate them continues to constantly change. I recall spacing out at some point, only to be shaken by the throaty laughter of some being, it’s levitating emerald orbs moving down the wash when illuminated by my headlamp. I appreciated the check-in, making sure the covers were tucked in. ——— There’s a feeling in the desert. The feeling of water. Sometimes you can’t hear or see it, but you catch a whiff of something subtle or you feel it on your skin. I turn and head up one of the gravel drainages. Something about this one… Not far up, I find solid rock; slabs with channels carved out by only one thing. I see it. A small puddle about the size of my palm. Up further, under the shade of a large juniper, a six by two foot shimmering pool sits patiently. Luxurious! Clear, lukewarm and not nearly enough bugs to deter me. Bottles and belly full, the walk up and out of the canyon is hot, though I make sure to soak it in. I came here to be hot. The invisible barrier between wilderness and forest road is back. The final sandstone block lets me peer back at the line I walked. I turn around and tiptoe across the wilderness boundary. Still quiet, still empty, still desert. ——— I enjoy easy walking at the end of multi day trips. It allows time for my tired mind to re-awaken to the rush of the civilized world. Sometimes I feel braindead upon returning. Seemingly empty of thoughts to think. With each step, I lower into the obsidian void as the landscape distorts. My ears ring with silence and then it’s back; environmental decibels soar. The sound of my own footsteps begin to annoy me and the screech and roar of OHVs shrivel my body. Let the land consume me! I’m too fragile! I wave as each combustion engine passes, showering me in dust. It feels like the right thing to do, though I sort of disgust myself doing it. They can have their roads (but dammit, stop building them, thanks!) and I’ll keep the dirt, rocks, cacti, spiders, beans, rats, flowers and bees. ——— I left my bike on a hillside, hugging the tough branches of a pinon pine. They got to spend some quality time enjoying the view. Back atop one of our greatest inventions, the wind is comforting as I slowly roll down onto pavement, past the noxious pink jeeps and inappropriately green lawns, a reminder of how thirsty I was just a few hours before. I’ve broken the barrier of re-entry and realize I’ve only eaten my can of beans for the day, so I sit outside the local mexican eatery and order more beans, rice and veggies. My body feels right again, torched by the sun and full from sensory overload. Northeast to the mountains. My sweater is layered with dirt and thorns, but my feet must remain bare. Linger on to the feeling of this place, for it’s fleeting nature will assure the desire to return, to once again know the rapture of its impermanence.

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Hometown tourism - February 19th, 2021

The rain let up, letting out a sigh of juniper, oak and prairie grasses. I lift my feet off the pedals, interrupting rush hour down the limestone creek. My bike could use a wash anyway. Two hours and two motionless armadillos. Im expecting a third coming up if the ratio continues. I think about my childhood when I’m out here and the sweet, vegetal taste of prickly pear cactus fruit. I glance left, beaten again by a roadrunner in our race towards somewhere. Man and horse, silhouetted by the deep depths of wandering cumulus shapes. We exchange waves and I wonder if he wants to swap steeds. Unlikely. The sun begins to slowly duck behind the hills, as if I won’t notice. I stare directly down the barrel, coax it with flattery. Stay just a second longer, why don’t you?

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Terlingua slow roll - January 17th, 2021

“Where ya headed?” He had a kind face, weathered from decades of life spent out here. Every breath of wind and the beaming sun working without resistance to create a living interpretation of the cracking, parched ground he walked upon. “Im not sure!” My excitement associated with those words seemed surprising to him. It was true, I promised myself I wouldn’t look at a map. “Beautiful day, beautiful country, have fun.” I thanked him and relayed similar sentiments. Food, water, daylight and private property were in abundance. The road continued though. I may have gotten it confused with an arroyo a time or two. Wildflowers, handmade mailboxes, a dog, rocks, lizards, rocks, sand, more rocks and a woman waving from her shaded porch. West Texas intimacy.

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A couple days in the Sangres - May 11th, 2020

One time Matt and I went to go climb a mountain. Absorbing the golden light and our beer, we chatted (mostly listened) to what seemed like half the town of 150 people, as they waited for the cover band to play across the street. I can’t recall who and I can’t help but think we missed out. We slept on the dirt, rose with the sun. Primal, in theory... but with modern technologies. Sufficient. Satisfactory. —- Something so ethereal about dawn in the hills. The sweet comfort of dew rolling off the flowers and aspen leaves, and the birds, likely discussing their dreams. That’ll warm you like nothing else. Get walking, we’ve got sky to stare at, rocks to talk to, water to drift with.

Walkin and thinkin

Foreword ——— I went for a long walk yesterday. I jotted down some of the things I was thinking. All this stuff below is common when I’m alone and outside for a while. This is what I wrote down. Pardon any harshness.

I sit here, perched on a granite bench above the Pine River, shirt unbuttoned and smoothly flapping behind me. The cool air from spring runoff cuts through the welcoming warmth of a changing season. I’m back at this spot exactly 365 days from my last visit. Last year I was mesmerized by the watered down chocolate milk that desired so deeply to reach the reservoir twelve or so miles away. I approach this year with caution. I know our winter was less than stellar and the continued drought has sucked the melting snow to its core and it’s still thirsty. Faint cries for help emit from the soil. Peering over the ledge and comparing photos and videos from last years runoff is saddening. It just isn’t the same. Climate fluctuates, yes, and so does the peak flow, but a sense of urgency erodes me to a fine dust. I too need water to feel normal again. I’ve planted myself firmly within these mountains and I try my very best to empathize. I’m left wandering around in my own thoughts, navigating helplessness, excitement and hope, confusion, longing and understanding. My mood shifts with the seasons. I’m brought again and again to my knees to feel the pulse and listen to the breathing. But what can I do? Will the lifestyle choices I’ve made amount to anything at all? Simply existing is doing harm. It’s a pessimistic view, no doubt, but I recognize the privilege I have to consider anything other than my immediate survival. I take it as it is and how it will forever be. We’re living through the choices of the past and at the mercy of previous generations, I want to document changes and beauty and the good that remains. There’s still so much to admire and to find comfort in. I await the next batch of wildflowers, monsoons and the restarting of the cycle. Tracing the bark of a ponderosa with my finger, the honey colored rump of a baby bear slowly lumbers back into the woods after we lock eyes. The chill of excitement flows down my limbs and I’m left to wonder again about the things I don’t know.

Days Away

The sky, oh, the sky! A hysterical laugh escapes me, craning my neck towards the bruised beyond. A smooth gradient ends with the sapphire horizon, starkly contrasted by the shimmering gamboge of aspen in their finest fall attire. My plans are rough and my pack is light. I’m perpetually overwhelmed by the possibilities of such a state, so I often leave with little more than a timeframe. ——— Some months earlier, amidst late spring, I contemplated a swelling river notorious for being the lone obstacle between you and alpine elation. I paced back and forth, imagined my eminent hypothermic disappearance and promptly sat in the dirt to celebrate life over handfuls of raisins and almonds. The only threat today is wet feet and shins and I am not about to back down to a game of hopscotch. ——— It’s September 5th and the shifting winds have blown the lingering smoke out of the air. Not to say the fires have subsided, for the west is still burning and I have not yet forgotten it. The smell of a campfire loses its romantic entanglement when it fills your lungs for months. Scrub oak will rule the world! ——— Monsoon season wasn’t that. My legs have taken on a matte beige finish from the subsequent moondust. Slowly veering left off the main thoroughfare, I pass through a large group of men all huddled inside their tents. I say hello to the few with their heads poked out into the world and none reply. How many natural things are as polarizing as the sun? It’s life, it’s death, joy and misery. I give them the benefit of the doubt, as I know how taxing it can be for 14 hours a day. ——— I was warned of the impending climb through dense aspen groves and loose footing. The internet has a way of over-complicating the outdoors. Physically demanding activity that mingles with inconveniences such as bushwacking or unkempt trail almost automatically assumes the title of being heinous, as this trail has been called. Let me list some synonyms of the word heinous. Evil, atrocious, monstrous, disgraceful, shameful. We’re lucky the mountains don’t swallow us whole. Calling our own privilege such words is… heinous. ——— The 6pm sun shines proudly upon the aptly named Jagged Peak. It’s allure is very nearly inescapable. I hastily pitch my tarp and sling my belongings underneath. It has me in it’s grasp. Looks like a sunset is for dinner. Fatigue fades away as I eye the peak next door, Knife Point. I’ve dreamt about it since first seeing it’s near vertical west face and imposing individualistic stature. The east side is a pleasant stroll. I feel my grip on my camera loosen as I step to the top. I wouldn’t have minded dropping it. Numbness in its entirety. I’m just a visitor, but it’s like I’m being let in on a secret. The feeling is rare and I’m glad it is. Complacency is the death of happiness out here. I might have floated back to camp, encased in clementine and rose. I didn’t sleep much, though admiring stars is a good enough reason not to. The neighbors were indifferent. My porcupine pal stopped by twice to nibble on my home and I don’t believe the family of goats stopped once on their racetrack around the tundra. ——— My schedule for today is empty. I dip my bottle, rippling the mirrored surface, drink and think. I take long strides, boulder to boulder, until the brisk air funneling from west to east over the saddle caresses my skin. The sun silhouettes the ridge above as I enter the shade. I miss it already. Snaking through broken granite blocks and quickly back into the sun, the ridge leads me to the summit of Windom Peak, where I join a party of five. Small talk ensues, but I’m easily distracted by the rotting, tightrope of teeth across to Jupiter Mountain. I like to think I know these hills well, though I’ve heard not even a whisper of this line. My schedule is suddenly filled as I say my goodbyes to the breakfast club. ——— If I could recall the minutiae, I would, though some form of sensory deprivation kicks in when the entirety of my attention is needed. I crave this feeling in the mountains. It feels like flowing water. Jupiter Mountain came quick and without incident, except for the micro abrasions on every bit of exposed skin. Granite isn’t soft. I lay under an overhang as my senses became ever louder and treated myself to mashed sweet potatoes while plucking dried thorns out of my hand. Couldn’t tell you where those came from. ——— Surfing and side stepping, buffed out trail appears through the slowly decaying alpine grasses. Down, down, deeper into the air conditioned pit. The closely packed molecules of air create an invisible river. You first feel the chill on your legs as you ease in. ——— Choosing a camp is usually a semi methodic choice, dictated by time, availability and water, though it’s 3pm and I can afford to tour the neighborhood. The stream splits, leaving a piece of prime real estate isolated in the middle. An island? For me?? Grass and pine needle bedding, a log bench created by a past inhabitant, large river rocks to place my butt on and a moat of mountain water. I’ll take it. I don’t particularly enjoy napping, but this seems like the place to do it, so I do. I awake a mear 30 minutes later with new found energy. I use it to read most of Virga & Bone. Is it appropriate to dream of the desert while the mountains have their arms warmly wrapped around me? They must have found out. It’s 6pm, I have goosebumps and too much energy. With a layer of down around my torso and my favorite bleach stained beanie on my head, I leave my island. ——— North to south and back again, the switchbacks straighten out and begin to contour the hillside during the final descent to the main trail. My three human interactions for the day was plenty, so I choose a small nook for the night between two downed aspen and a boulder. Sitting atop my home barefoot, I finish my book just as the big dipper signals bedtime. It’s another warm night. I steep in the calm, knowing there won’t be many more like it with winter approaching. ——— The alpenglow is slow and hazy the next morning. It’s hard to tell what time it is, though it’s light, so I start walking. I begin back down the valley I came from, but the sky remains a washed out sandy shade. My brain feels clogged. Up the final hill and away from the life of the river, the view is swallowed by smoke. Fire season’s last stand. A group on horseback passes by at a pace slower than a walk. Each has their own idea of where it’s coming from. California, Colorado, Colorado, Arizona, California. The west is still burning, but I had forgotten it. ——— I sit against my tire in the dusty parking lot, barefoot again, and stare into the souls of the ponderosa. Do they worry, like I do? Do they wish to unroot and grow wings, like I do? Do they want a hug, like I do?

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The saddle and Windom on the left from the morning watering hole

The saddle and Windom on the left from the morning watering hole

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The last half of my line between Windom and Jupiter

The last half of my line between Windom and Jupiter

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Books

I grew up on Goosebumps and Harry Potter, though I remember neither very well. There’s no way I could even begin to enter the brain of my single digit aged self, but I’m often curious about my series selections back then. Perhaps it’s like my attraction to Edward Abbey now. Roll your eyes, I know. Everyone, at least in this part of the country, considers it a household name and not always a pleasant one. I’ve read nearly every one of his books and they’re not all created equal. Desert Solitaire not only forever changed the way I viewed the desert, but the natural world in its entirety. It was among the first pieces of “nature writing” I encountered. ——— Over the years, as I passed age ten and eventually entered my teens, I’d walk into my closet every so often and stare at the bookshelf, untouched since the Goosebumps days. Reading felt like a chore all through school. I’m not sure what attracted me to Goosebumps since I’ve never enjoyed the horror category. However, I’ve always had an interest in fear. You know the feeling. The blood runs through your veins like a river and your skin dances. When the feeling of safety returns, it’s entirely euphoric. Like being separated from your body, just for little. I imagine that’s what Harry Potter and Goosebumps were for me; a satisfying separation from reality. Because being young and privileged is just such a drag, man. No, but, I think that there’s a deep attraction to wonder and mystery within us and especially so when we’re young. This is a topic I’m going to write about in length later down the line, but it’s also how I’m going to compare my past and present reading choices. ——— Edward Abbey’s writing is not my bible, it’s not my life manual and it certainly isn’t to be taken very seriously. Launching bulldozers into Lake Powell, rolling boulders onto government vehicles, lighting fire to billboards, measuring miles driven in cases of beer finished, etc etc etc, monkeywrenching, ecodefense, debauchery, you get it. However, the wonder filled boy inside me can’t stop looking. My imagination runs rampant and no other author has allowed me to have such intense daydreams. My eyes are open but my surroundings dissipate, leaving me with words morphing into a simulation of sorts. Ed managed to bridge the immense gap between a chore and a desire. ——— I haven’t stopped reading since picking up Desert Solitaire, however many years ago that was. An accomplishment I’m proud of, though it feels normal and necessary for me to read now. This is going to be my reading log for the rest of the year. I’ll list each book I read without any personally feelings, so you can form your own untainted opinion, if you choose to read any of them. Here ya go!

January

  • Here, There, Elsewhere : William Least Heat-Moon

  • Cross Country : Rickey Gates

  • The Devil’s Highway : Luis Alberto Urrea

February

  • Killers of the Flower Moon : David Grann

  • For the Time Being : Annie Dillard

  • The Anthropology of Turquoise : Ellen Meloy

March

  • The Unreality of Memory : Elisa Gabbert

  • The Moth Snowstorm : Michael McCarthy

  • Everett Ruess: A Vagabond for Beauty : W.L. Rusho

April

  • West of the Thirties : Edward T. Hall

  • Eating Stone : Ellen Meloy

  • Life in a Corner : Robert McPherson

May

  • The Emerald Mile : Kevin Fedarko

  • Where the Rain Children Sleep : Michael Engelhard

  • House of Rain : Craig Childs

June

  • Arctic Dreams : Barry Lopez

  • Ghost Grizzlies : David Petersen

  • Pilgrim at Tinker Creek : Annie Dillard

July

  • Smoke Gets in Your Eyes : Caitlin Doughty

  • Finding Abbey : Sean Prentiss

  • In Abundance : Annie Dillard

August

  • The Secret Knowledge of Water : Craig Childs

Lizards. So many lizards.

I step down a series of dry, sand filled pour offs. It rained two days ago, but you wouldn’t know it. I merge onto the bovine highway that runs north to south at the base of the gently sloping wave of rock. Peering around the corner of the cliff my camp is perched upon, “texas 92” is etched into the delicate sandstone. Going to take a wild guess and say this is not the work of the ancestral Puebloans. Tip toeing rock to rock to avoid cryptobiotic soil, the lifeline for the desert, I come to the mouth of one of the many canyons along this wave. One of the few I have yet to travel in this area. A sliver of light comes through a narrow arch in the overhang. Looters have trampled this area into a form not too dissimilar from the bovine highway. Across the depression, a wall glows in the late afternoon sun. Streaks of white cross one another as if a child drew with their eyes closed. Some geologists may suggest otherwise. La Sal, Abajo, San Juan, La Plata, Ute, Carrizo, Chuska. I dream about this perch. A great place to lose track of time, and so I do. I toss a rock and count the seconds before the nearly inaudible sound of sand being cratered. Seven. Or maybe it was six. The opportunity to descend off the wave’s peak is rare on this side. I shimmy through an elongated triangle in the rock and sit under an overhang. Behind me there is one of the most flawless spirals carved into the wall. It’s one of my favorite petroglyphs to stumble on. They’re everywhere. Spirals and hands. The sun is going to set soon and I have to squint to see my camp. My stomach has yet to growl, so I make a pit stop to visit with a gnarled old juniper. There are four bear-hug sized trunks converging at a single trunk. They lean in different directions, hovering a foot or two off the ground, sturdy and alive. The harsh angles of it’s limbs are silhouetted by the sun, which continues to set, despite knowing I’m still squinting to see camp. The bovine highway is empty, as per usual, so I merge slowly and don’t even use my blinker. I walk with my hands pressed against my back, which never fails to be warm. Small wisps of sand lift off the tips of my shoes as I enter and exit the wash. The cold air remains low and I press my hands ever so slightly harder. Quinoa, hummus and olives are satisfying, but the sky is utterly intoxicating. Dusk for dessert. I leave for another walk.

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Howdy!

Remember my old website? Cool, me neither. I rarely advertised or updated, allowing it to go to sleep for a good long while. I want things to be different this time. I want this to serve as an archive, a place to spill thoughts and stories and be a medium for documenting my ongoing obsession with the four corners. You’ll notice the CR, HC and MR over there. Three places within the four corners that have hugged me so tightly that I can’t and don’t want to let go. While Hills, Desert and Friends will likely only contain photos, these other three will also have writing, drawings and photos of all variations, because they deserve it. And because I said so. And because photos can’t relay a full range of emotion and I love being their friend, so I want to show them off. A scrapbook of their lives and its impact on me. This Words tab will have just that. Ramblings, short essays, stories, etc. Re-working my website has been long overdue. My brain is constantly racing nothing but itself and this is where I’ll choose to share the course it takes. Expect to see even less on instagram. Hope you enjoy all that will accumulate here. I’m excited to share more of myself and the things I love, without the blaring expectations of instagram. Happy Thursday. I got spring fever yeehaw. Don’t be a stranger, say hi!